Starting Blocks

Today is the day I start the SS14 range for shirts, ties and accessories. I've just placed the fabric orders for AW13 14 and negotiated delivery dates with all the factories. As my placement comes to an end shortly I've been asked to get the next range finished ahead of time - I'm actually excited at the prospect of everything, not only being on time for once, but early as well!

I'm currently on the train to London to start the process, I'll be visiting the current range and assessing its success by talking with the sales staff and asking what they'd like to see for spring summer. I'll then visit our competitors and see what they're doing (a bit cheeky but everyone has to do it - you don't want to miss out on a major trend).

If I've got time I will also try to visit the V&A, they've got a David Bowie exhibition starting this week, his flamboyant and eccentric style has influenced many a designer over the decades including the great Paul Smith (see this weeks Mr Porter Journal).

On the train back tonight I'll write up my conclusions and ideas for SS14 and when I'm back in the office I'll look at the fabrics from Premiere Vision (see my previous post). I'll then choose the range, creating initial design boards.

I also like to look at trend forecasting site Mudpie, partly because I'm passionate about this aspect of the industry but also for inspiration with colours, vision and accessories.

Once the fabrics are finalised I'll create the design sheets, choosing the fit, collar, cuffs, trims and design details. I also have to take in to account the suits which are overlooked by a separate buying team we try to make the range cohesive so they sit well in stores and encourage add on sales.

When we have the finished shirt range; prices have been negotiated, deliveries agreed and all elements (branding, trim, fabrics etc) have been synchronised we meet with merchandise who tell us how much of each shirt we can buy and asses our margins (being a small but luxury brand means margins are tight). Quantities may then affect prices- if we don't meet minimums on fabrics we can be charged extra which is why it's important to form good relationships with suppliers- they can sometimes let you off the surcharges!

From the shirts, the ties and accessories fall in to place and colours are developed. Since starting on this brand I've been pushing for tie bars - perhaps an obvious thing but with tight margins any risk can be detrimental. At the conference earlier in the month (see my previous blog) store managers asked to see them along with a whole new range of accessories which I'm now going to develop.

A Tip of the Hat to You

With work being busier, more challenging and more demanding then I could ever have predicted when I started this blog, I have neglected my updates.

After a crash landing in reality I have come to realise everything my lecturers ever told me about the fashion industry is indeed true; hard work, long hours, a distinct lack of glamour and completely thrilling.

In my job as an Assistant Buyer I am involved in the whole process; from trend forecasting, design, product development, picking Pantones, fabrics and trims to making sure the final garment is perfection, to thinking of and finding the finishing touches (in this case cufflinks, tie bars, 1930's arm bands and pocket squares).

Working in menswear I have a constant eye on the latest blogs, mens magazines and websites like Mr Porter and of course the painstaking chore of picking male models to shoot our shirts on...

I love this industry, I couldn't imagine being part of anything else, it's dynamic, rewarding, challenging, ever-changing, inspirational, beautiful, creative and has a vast depth. I would recommend this to anyone but it's not without it's difficulties.

Tips for starting out in the world of fashion

1. Leave your ego a-go-go - This is a competitive and difficult world to work in, if you are think you are too good to run errands for your seniors, someone else will.

2. Think positive - Difficult days are a plenty but the rewarding one make up for it - just remember that.

3. Get as much experience as possible when at Uni / college - It's the only time in your life when you can really work for free, student loan and an abundance of time make this the perfect opportunity - do anything and everything - you won't know if you want to do it until you've done it!

4. Network - It's hard and often shamelessly cringey but, again, if you don't someone else will. Business cards are a good idea, you never know when you may meet someone influential and it's more professional than scribbling your name and number in the back of a receipt. Linked In is also a great networking site, even making friends with people on your course - you don't know which one may be the next Anna Wintour.

5. Always be professional - Every company is different but, at least at first, it's usually better to dress smart and be polite, recently a girl came to do a two week placement in our buying office - she wore an offensive T-shirt and swore like a sailor, needless to say she won't be coming back!

6. Write down everything - I have a million lists; potential companies to send my CV to when I graduate (about a million at the last count...) , potential career avenues, contacts I've made networking, things I've learnt at work, things I want to learn before I leave (what exactly is the difference between at satin and a sateen?!) skills I need to develop, courses I could take to do this and 1001 different things.

7. Constantly look at job adverts - You may not be in the position to apply (they may be too senior, you might be happy where you are or you might have a degree to finish like me) but you need to know what's out there, where it is, how much it pays and most importantly - what you need to be successful in getting the job when the time comes.

8. Keep up to date - Vogue, Elle, Harpers, Drapers, blogs, fashion shows anything and everything - it will always be useful!

9. Stay inspired - It's a creative industry above everything else and sometimes a day spent doing nothing other than emailing and phoning that supplier half way across the world about some very boring technical issue may make you forget once in a while. Read a book, watch a film, knock up a piece of art - it's all relevant.

10. And back to number 2... Stay positive - it's a tough cookie to crack and may take it's time, you may have to pay your dues running errands for a year or two or suffer job rejection but...

The Fashion Journals

This blog is a creative outlet for myself and a way to record my early years in the fashion industry but it's also (hopefully!) a tool to help other young aspiring fashionistas.

I've just started my internship as a Fashion Buyer on a men's shirt brand as part of my Fashion Marketing degree and am so far loving the responsibility and diversity of the role but it's challenging and hard work. 

Here is my journal for you to read, your thoughts and inspirations are welcome and encouraged as I get to grips with the fashion ropes.

So for the past two months I've been finding my feet as I become an Assistant Buyer for the first time, the things I found hardest was the sheer volume of information to learn; past season's best and worst sellers, product codes, supplier's names, terminology and the general protocol of the business to name a few.

I love the brand that I'm working on; a very small, luxury Savile Row shirt company stocked in the Savile Row flagship and some Harvey Nichols. It's just myself and the buying director working on the brand and as she has around 9 other names to look after I feel like it's really my own.

Passionate about the role and eager to get it right I compiled some competitor analysis, looking at Paul Smith and Ozwald Boateng. I also looked at future trend research for SS13 (unlike fast fashion we work a year in advance however, amazingly, our deadlines still seem to be tight and deliveries in jeopardy). Trend prediction is one of my major passions and ideally I'd like to try it out as a future career option before I finish University, I love the depth of analysis and interpretation that goes in to it as well as the incredibly creative element and it's power to influence what we'll be wearing in a years' time.

Next week I'll use this information as my buying director and I go to London to pick out fabrics for the SS13 range.

Perhaps Orla Kiely isn't quite right but I love these beautiful furnishing fabrics nonetheless!